![]() 10/12/2015 at 23:26 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
I know W210s aren’t great cars. They have all sorts of issues, mostly minor. But at the same time, my options are limited.
Honda isn’t especially known for their high quality automatic transmissions, nor is Toyota for sludge-free engines. An early 2000s Maxima would be decent, but all of them in my area are either a bit ragged, or high mileage. Mazdas are a bit pricey, and Subarus have head gasket issues. I don’t like any of Detroit’s mainstream mid-size sedans, and northstars are a bit problematic. I need a mid-size because my dad may have to use it occasionally, and he’s 6’1” and all torso. As it sits, my options are a bit limited. I’m choosing between the lesser of two evils. Plus, he doesn’t like BMWs. What am I to do?
![]() 10/12/2015 at 23:30 |
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You’d be surprised how cheap these are getting, and as a wise man once said, YOLO.
(Seriously though, if you can afford it, I don’t think X-Types are actually that bad reliability wise, for a Jag)
![]() 10/12/2015 at 23:36 |
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As long as you don’t get one of the twin turbo I6s famous for munching transmissions, I’ve heard S80s are not that bad in terms of reliability, and they are gorgeously stately (used by >3 heads of state...) Driving dynamics of course aren’t the most exciting, but who cares when you’re in an S80?
![]() 10/12/2015 at 23:40 |
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My main issue with S80s is that electrical diagnostics are almost hell in themselves.
![]() 10/12/2015 at 23:42 |
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They’re more expensive than what I’m looking at. An x-type is $7k here!
![]() 10/12/2015 at 23:43 |
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Why not an M45? Better that pretty much everything you listed as a possibility...
![]() 10/12/2015 at 23:44 |
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I would say S90 but those aren’t completely free of electrical issues either and are the ultimate definition of boring Swedish brick. At least they’re RWD.
![]() 10/12/2015 at 23:44 |
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What about a 9-5?
http://www.autotrader.ca/a/Saab/9-5/KAM…
It’s in Kamloops, but Saab.
![]() 10/12/2015 at 23:45 |
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None for sale within 2 hours of where I live.
![]() 10/12/2015 at 23:46 |
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Kamloops is not too bad of a distance (I live in Kelowna). I’ll have to take a look at 9-5s
![]() 10/12/2015 at 23:47 |
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2002 or later N*
![]() 10/12/2015 at 23:48 |
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Damn :(
![]() 10/12/2015 at 23:52 |
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There’s two Devilles around me, and one is a stretch limo. The other is black. I don’t like cleaning black cars.
![]() 10/13/2015 at 00:01 |
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210’s are much more solid than people give them credit for. And most of the work on them could be handled by a semi-competent DIY-er or just flat out ignored as most issues are so minor they’re never even noticed by the average person. Even their oil leaks are minor. And you can’t kill their engines unless you just plain lose all of your oil and keep driving. A comparable BMW will probably have the same issues if not a bit worse (in my experience anyways) and a VW/Audi will probably be significantly worse. My experience, albeit limited, with Volvo doesn’t give me confidence in that price range either. Maybe an Infiniti j30 or i30/i35? 4 cylinder Camry?
![]() 10/13/2015 at 00:02 |
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Also there's eldorados and sevilles
![]() 10/13/2015 at 00:03 |
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4 cylinder camries are the same money as W210s, unless you want something made before the first Bush administration.
![]() 10/13/2015 at 00:03 |
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I just searched Cadillac.
![]() 10/13/2015 at 00:11 |
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Well yeah, but it will probably have a few less issues (since it is technologically archaic in comparison) and cost less to maintain (German car parts, yo). However, the SPM* rating is about 10x as high.
*souls per mile - the average number of human souls you can expect the vehicle to consume for every mile driven.
![]() 10/13/2015 at 00:11 |
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Is this with your own money?
![]() 10/13/2015 at 00:13 |
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I was thinking of an AWD one for the winter. They are cheap! I've read bad things though.
![]() 10/13/2015 at 00:15 |
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Nope. My dad offered my a car to replace the Cutlass as a bribe to be onboard with the move to BC.
![]() 10/13/2015 at 00:16 |
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$2k on Chicago Craigslist. Can it possibly be in decent shape?!?
http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/cto/526275…
![]() 10/13/2015 at 01:12 |
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How about an Infiniti Q45?
Not sure what your budget is, but you might be able to step into a M35/M45.
But with that said, I’d take my chances and go for a Lexus/Toyota. The sludge problem isn’t that big of a deal if you monitor your oil levels and change schedules.
![]() 10/13/2015 at 02:22 |
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No, W210s aren’t great cars. They’re bad cars. So bad, they are argubaly among the least reliable and least well put-together of any car to wear the three-pointed star. This was when they started to build a car to a price, and not a standard, like they did with the W124.
But if you can’t find a well-cared for W124, I might suggest the KB1/2 Acura RL. I think it’ll work perfectly.
A good friend at work who is 6’1 and “all torso” - a couple of his nicknames are “Santa” and “Big Belly” used to drive a 2002 Deville. The rear suspension went (as they do) and suspicious of the later-gen Northstars, he was looking to get a new car.
Knowing what I drive , he told me his long-time mechanic had a 2006 RL with good mileage and condition. I told him to buy it. He did. Six months later, he loves it. He took it on a trip to his cottage in Nova Scotia - a 14 hr drive - and felt as if he’d been driving for 2 hours. Unsurprisingly, the car also been very reliable. The only thing that’s gone out was the alternator (replaced for the cost of doing it on a Honda Accord, pretty much), but on a loaded luxury car of this age that’s not too surprising, and can be chalked up to wear-and-tear.
TLDR, the answer is a 2005-2008 RL.
P.S. Regarding Honda automagics: 1999-2004 should be avoided at all costs. 2005 and up is seen as safe: the further from 2005, the safer you are (so find an 07-08).
![]() 10/13/2015 at 02:42 |
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Mitsubishi?
![]() 10/13/2015 at 03:05 |
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W210. I had one. Only two issues of note, one being a rotted O-ring causing a fuel weep, and the alternator.
As long as you don’t have a car from a place where rust is prevalent, or have one after 1999, then you are good from the front suspension issues (That requires all of two welds to fix, so even if it does go wonky, it’s still not that bad to fix)
I mean, you could buy an A6, but why on earth would you subject yourself to maintenance on a 30V 2.8L Audi V6? (Or any Audi of the era, for that matter...erm...B5 S4...hurk)
![]() 10/13/2015 at 03:08 |
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And MB did make them relatively easy to work on...
Well......I’m still grumbling about how the alternator replacement on the OM606 requires removal and replacement of the turbocharger to charge cooler hardpipe (Because sharing a mounting bolt).
![]() 10/13/2015 at 03:31 |
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Well it is a Ford Mondeo underneath...
![]() 10/13/2015 at 09:38 |
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Diesels are inherently stupid to work on anyways, at least in my opinion.
![]() 10/13/2015 at 10:29 |
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How to buy cheap reliable car:
Find something made between 1965 and 1989
Japanese or American only
If Japanese: Any 80’s 4 cyl is a good bet
If American: Anything that’s mid to full size and RWD is a good bet
Don’t spend more than $2,000
Enjoy your wheels
![]() 10/13/2015 at 11:29 |
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My ‘05 Bonnie GXP’s NorthStar was consuming a quart of oil for every 110 miles driven when I traded it in. I don’t think they fixed the issues with that motor by ‘05.
![]() 10/13/2015 at 11:51 |
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Basically, my choices where I live is a W210 or a 6th Gen Accord. Considering a blown transmission is a real possibility with the Accord, I’m currently looking into W210s. Also, I’ve driven an Accord. It drives like a large Tercel.
![]() 10/13/2015 at 12:09 |
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There’s one an hour from me, but it appears to be lightly modified, and I’d prefer to start off with something stock. Still, I’ll keep it in mind.
![]() 10/13/2015 at 12:33 |
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That’s not much of a choice. Expand your search area?
![]() 10/13/2015 at 12:49 |
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Already expanded it to a 2 hour radius.
![]() 10/13/2015 at 13:10 |
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Expand it some more :)
![]() 10/13/2015 at 19:16 |
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Vancouver and Calgary are a bit far.